For me, Opening Ceremony is synonymous with millennial luxury design fare, replete with neoteric cuts and bold graphic prints that street-style junkies' dreams are made of. Which is also why I have a love-hate relationship with it's Fall 2015 collection. Presented as a fashion/photography exhibition in collaboration with Spike Jonze's Please Use Your Best Judgement photo series, the collection pulled from Jonze's work chronicling the evolution of BMX and boarding subcultures through the '90's. But instead of a literal translation, Opening Ceremony designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon had a more sartorial take. What could have ended up as a loud and showy display of fanfare instead come through with a subtle, cerebral quality, actually mirroring the overall tone of Jonze's work more than his subjects.
The most avant-garde cuts present were in the asymmetrically cropped knit sweaters, effectively balanced by the slightly off-kilter hemlines that fell just above the knee or mid-calf. A juxtaposition to the rosy pink hues of their Spring collection, Lim and Leon stuck to a palette of black and muted autumnal tones, a burnt orange being the brightest. Where I expected athletic I found sporty, in the form of exaggerated pant legs, utilitarian belts high on the waist, and turtleneck scrunched high accented with buttons or oversized bows.
I love this collection because well, I love this collection. It's more sophisticated and modest than what I'd expect from OC. But that's also where the hate part of the equation comes in for me. Okay - obviously I don't hate it. I think it's an incredibly fresh and versatile (read: more wearable) collection that will surely appeal to a broader audience than past seasons. But for that same reason, I think fans of the label anticipating their latest fix of unique, slightly ironic (save for one Kodak motif) pieces for Fall may be disappointed. Either way, one thing I'm sure of are the slouchy, pocketed trousers that come in at the ankle *just so* will be a staple of my closet come next Fall.
Photos courtesy of Opening Ceremony